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Tuesday, April 26, 2011


This handy fold-down table is easy to make - and will encourage you to start the day with a healthy breakfast.

Hard Labour Rating:
Skills Level Rating:
6/10 (requires use of power tools)
Time Required:
about three hours
±R650: (pine ±R350; hinges ±R40; paint, brushes ±R240)
Project Notes:
We used laminated pine shelving for the tabletop, and offcut pieces from previous projects for some of the components.
Shopping List:
- one 1800mm x 610mm x 22mm laminated pine shelving
- one 1800mm x 69mm x 22mm pine plank cut to two 900mm (feet)
- one 1800mm x 69mm x 22mm pine plank cut to two 472mm (crossbeam for the framework)
- one 1800mm x 44mm x 22mm pine plank cut to two 610mm (bottom support and flap)
- 610mm x 22mm x 22mm (top support; we used an offcut piece)
Other Items:
- wood glue
- 8mm x 40mm dowels
- six 50mm butt hinges
- latch
- Hilti wall anchors
- medium grit sandpaper (120 grit)
- multisurface primer/universal undercoat
- water-based enamel/blackboard paint
- electric drill, 4mm, 8mm drill bits
- tape measure
- sharp pencil
- combination square or tri-square
- circular saw
- paintbrush or foam roller
- dowelling set
- sash clamps
- G-clamps
- drill guide
- spirit level
- rubber mallet 

The flap folds over the edge 
of the tabletop and is secured by the latch. Paint the bottom of your fold-up table with blackboard paint - and use it as a chalkboard.

Get started1 Use the measuring tape and tri-square to measure and mark a perpendicular line across the laminated shelving for the tabletop. It should measure 922mm; 22mm longer than the table legs (see sketch for details).

2 Use the circular saw to cut the tabletop to size. TIP To make a clean cut, first mark your board to indicate the exact location of your cut. Use the indicator guide on the base of the saw to ensure that the blade is lined up precisely with the line you intend to cut. Then fix a straight plank to the board using G-clamps to act as a guide.

3 Clamp the two 472mm pieces together and mark two equally spaced lines across both ends. Then mark centre points on each, for the positions of the dowels.
4 Use a drill guide when drilling the 8mm holes for the dowels.

5 Place the dowel markers in the holes.

6 Line up the ends of the 472mm planks between the two 900mm planks (feet). Number the matching ends so that dowels and holes line up correctly.
7 Give the joint a light tap with a rubber mallet.

8 The points of the dowel markers create centrepoints for the corresponding holes that need to be drilled in the opposing piece.
9 Place a dab of glue in each hole before inserting the dowels; then match and fit the numbered ends together.
10 Use sash clamps to hold the framework firmly while the glue hardens.
11 Now fix the leg framework to the underside of the tabletop, using the hinges.
12 Use a 4mm drill bit to drill four equally spaced holes along the 610 x 44 x 22mm (bottom support) and 610 x 22 x 22mm pieces (top support). These pieces will be screwed into the wall later, using Hilti wall anchors.
13 Fix the remaining 610 x 44 x 22m-lengths (flap) to the 610 x 22 x 22mm (top support), using two hinges.
14 Fit the latch to both the leg framework and the front face of the holding bracket, as shown. Now use a spatula to apply wood filler to any imperfections. Once the filler is dry, use the sandpaper to finish these areas. Then use a paintbrush to apply multisurface primer or universal undercoat, followed by water-based enamel in the colour of your choice - or simply apply a polyurethane varnish. Paint the underside of the tabletop with blackboard paint.
To attach it to the wallMark 900mm from the ground up, and use the spirit level to draw a 610mm-line against the wall. Screw the 610 x 44 x 22mm-length (bottom support) onto the wall, using Hilti anchors. Fix the remaining screws onto the tabletop. Fold the table, and mark where the top support should be screwed in at the wall. Nail the 610 x 22 x 22mm (top support) in place, using Hilti anchors, so the 610 x 44 x 22mm flap folds over the top edge of the table top when folded away.